Tuesday, December 27, 2011

Merry Christmas!

Back in Ohio at my mom's for the holidays. Baking away from my own kitchen is always interesting, but baking at my mom's was definitely easier than baking at Randy's. I credit age and gender for her well-prepared kitchen. All I had to supply was the ginger.

This week's cake was a gingerbread cake. As most people know, the gingerbread used to make gingerbread houses is actually not delicious at all, because it has to be tough to provide structural stability. So Dr. Robinson found a recipe for this cake, which is as soft and spicy as you imagine gingerbread should be. It's full of interesting ingredients: ground and crystallized ginger, molasses, black pepper, dark brown sugar. It was easy to make (a welcome break after the last cake debacle)--the toughest part was chopping the crystallized ginger. It smelled delicious while baking, and came out moist and spicy and excellent--particularly when served with Great Lakes Christmas Ale Ginger Snap ice cream. Yum!

In this chapter, Dr. Robinson talks about the end of two family traditions: the family vacation to a cottage in Michigan, because the cottage owners decided to stop renting it out, and the last gingerbread house building party, because her daughters were less enthusiastic and outgrowing the tradition. This year, I too am feeling the end of family traditions. I used to love Christmas time, and our own unique family routine: dinner and family presents Christmas Eve, then Santa's gifts Christmas morning followed by an afternoon of movies. Church Christmas morning when I was younger, then Midnight Mass when we were old enough to stay up. Way too many types of Christmas cookies. But things change: new travel requirements, financial concerns, houses, churches, relationships--I feel like I am struggling to hold onto the traditions that we used to have, desperate to not let them slip away. But sometimes change has to happen. Who knows if I will even come back to Cleveland next year? When you have to make room in your life for someone else, there must be compromise, which automatically leads to change. I know that I need to let go and allow new traditions to form. It's just hard--it solidifies the transition into real adulthood.

When my mom tasted the gingerbread cake, she immediately said, "You can make this every year!" So maybe we've already started a new tradition. If so, it's certainly a delicious one.

Buche de Honte

This was the cake that almost ended the project. I was 95% certain I could not pull it off. And, so, I have to confess, I cheated a little... there were a few minor modifications, just so I could get through it.

I don't know if you've ever tried to make a Buche de Noel, but my recommendation is: don't. It's the most time-consuming, difficult cake ever. I devoted 6 hours of my life to this cake, and that's without the stupid meringue mushrooms (details to come). Many tears were shed, expletives shouted, and items covered in chocolate (the cake book was nearly a casualty, but I managed to dry it out, so aside from a section full of spotty butter stains, it lives on).

My adventure began with a week-long search for a jelly roll pan. I scoured grocery stores, Targets, and facebook friends for something labeled "jelly roll pan" until finally Tim told me he had one. When I went to pick it up, he handed me a cookie sheet. Apparently, a jelly roll pan is just a cookie sheet with sides. Tragically, his was too small, but conveniently, my mother had just bought me a super fancy giant cookie sheet the last time she visited. Success #1: did not have to buy new pan.

The cake part of a Yule Log is deceptively simple: mix dry stuff, mix wet stuff, beat egg whites, combine everything, pour into pan lined with parchment paper, bake. It's a good way to start off because the ease of making the cake, which you would guess would be the primary component of, well, a cake, gives you hope that maybe, just maybe, you can accomplish this nonsense. But immediately upon taking the cake out of the oven, the fun begins. The hot cake needs to be covered with plastic wrap, and then a damp kitchen towel, and then inverted onto a cooling rack... which is quite an adventure with a lava-hot pan. Then everything--cake, parchment paper, plastic wrap, and towel, all need to be rolled up together and allowed to cool. I decided during this process that cake is really not meant to be rolled. The surface of my cake was covered with tons of little fault lines, like some sort of earthquake had gone through. But it never tore completely. Success #2, I guess.

While the cake was cooling, I started on the espresso cream filling. I don't own an espresso maker, so espresso was out of the question. I worried that coffee might not be strong enough, though. Fortunately, I had seen a previous coworker and his wife the night before, and they had given me Turkish coffee to use with the Turkish coffee set they had previously given me for my birthday. I figured Turkish coffee was pretty darn strong, so it should suffice in the absence of espresso. If you want to substitute Turkish coffee, however, make sure it's not the first time you've ever made Turkish coffee. Three attempts later, I ended up with something that was not quite authentic-looking or tasting Turkish coffee but would just have to do, because I was tired of trying to make it work. Finished the filling... but really more failure than success. Moved onto the frosting--a Swiss Meringue Buttercream frosting... which is exactly what it sounds like: some crazy combination of meringue and buttercream. But it was actually the easiest part of the cake to make. Success #3.

Then cake assembly. It was during this process I decided I would never again make a Yule Log. It sounded easy enough: unroll cake, spread filling on cake, re-roll cake. The problem is, all that filling spread on the cake doesn't exactly want to fit inside when the cake is rolled up. And it has to go somewhere. Which was all over my arms, my shirt, the towel the cake had been rolled in, the counter, and the floor. I was quite literally up to my elbows in espresso cream filling. Commence tears. I sort of wanted to just quit and throw the whole cracking, espresso cream-bleeding cake out. But I had spent way to much time at this point, so I just sort of made a tube out of the cake and threw it in the fridge to chill appropriately. Liz: 3. Cake: 2.

Thankfully, frosting covers all sins. Once I spread a thick layer of fantastic meringue buttercream frosting over the cake, I shaped and smoothed it and ended up with something that actually did resemble a white log. I just had to hope people would be too focused on the tasty deliciousness of the cake to examine the inside too closely. Success #4.

Now for the major cheating: decorating. Apparently, according to recipes by Martha Stewart and Julia Child, you are supposed to make baked meringue mushroom shapes to decorate the "log" and attach them with melted chocolate. This requires pastry bags, two different sizes of tips, patience and artistic talent. None of which I have. I angsted over how I would accomplish these mushrooms all week. Finally, I just said forget it. I dusted the log with cocoa powder to make it brown and used green sugar crystals to make patches of "moss." It really did look like a log. Just a less fancy log. Whatever. Logs shouldn't be fancy anyway. They're logs. At least it was FINALLY done.

I took it to a holiday party Bree and her husband were hosting that evening. Despite its lack of beauty and correctness, it was a huge hit. Everyone loved it. It was gratifying to know that all that work had paid off, but not gratifying enough for me to ever go through this process again, so I told everyone to enjoy it now because it'd be the only one I'd ever make.

A girl from my program loved the cake and took the leftovers home. I wasn't there to see it, but apparently she forgot that she had placed it on the seat of the car and sat on it. She texted me about it, and at that point I just laughed hysterically. A fitting end for that cake, I think. She did say after she had finished the rest that even completely flat, it was still delicious.

I am ready for some easy cakes now. This one was just rough. Hopefully the Christmas cakes will be a bit more relaxing. It's hard to be filled with holiday spirit when you're covered in espresso cream filling and swearing at a cake.

Monday, December 12, 2011

July in Christmas

I was not feeling particularly festive, despite the rapidly approaching holidays. I tried cranking up Trans Siberian Orchestra, spattering garland and stockings and candles around my apartment, and dragging out the tree, and... ugh. Nothing. There just doesn't seem to be much Christmas spirit going around. Or even Hanukkah spirit, for that matter.

I refused to decorate the tree myself. In my family, it's always been kind of a big deal. Everyone had to be home to participate. The ornaments were unpacked and laid out, and everyone had their assigned group to hang. Cookies and spiced cider (with or without rum) were served, carols were played... it was truly a holiday event. Obviously living hundreds of miles away from my family, my own little tree doesn't get such special treatment, but the past couple years I've had a helper. Thinking about decorating my tree solo reminded me of how much I miss Randy, how hard long distance relationships are, and how much I wish things were just back to normal, our "normal," our routine. Faced with lack of family and lack of lover, tree decorating seemed like a chore, and I had no desire to do it.

Thankfully, I have some pretty great friends, who are basically the closest thing to family I can get around here. They were easily recruited for a tree decorating event by the promise of Great Lakes Christmas Ale (imported from Cleveland by my mother, and essentially liquid gold) and the weekly cake. I hoped a little company, good food, and good beer could spark some holiday spirit.


The cake was a lemon polenta pound cake. The recipe is fairly simple, except for zesting the lemons. I'd like to know who the first person was that decided to use "zest" in anything. I'd like to find him or her and give him or her a swift kick. I also discovered that baking soda boxes should probably come with no-slip grips, since somehow my box flew from my hand and went crashing to the floor, creating a beautiful blanket of snow all over my kitchen, complete with little footprints. Quite festive. In a quite irritating way. Clearly baking the cake did little for my holiday spirit.


But once Chris, Tim and Maureen arrived, Christmas music was playing, Santa hats were donned, and Christmas Ale and cake were served, my spirits did pick up a bit. The cake was perfect--crispy brown crust on the outside and a crumbly yet moist nearly neon yellow inside, with a bright, fresh, lemony flavor. It was a like a burst of sunshine in the cold December weather, and provided just enough extra warmth to kick the festivities into high gear. So the tree was decorated, Christmas Ale consumed, and lemon polenta pound cake enjoyed by all. I'm feeling more Rudolph than Grinch now, so bring on the holidays!

There's No Cake in Fruitcake

Only fruit. And rum. Lots of rum.

I'm a little apprehensive about a fruitcake recipe ending up in this book. There's been so many fantastic and unique and delicious recipes, and then, out of nowhere, fruitcake?! Dr. Robinson assures us that there really is such a thing as a good fruitcake. But I'm a skeptic. Then again, remember the Tomato Cake...

This cake was actually the cake from two weeks ago, but I wanted to wait until the first check and rum re-soaking to see how things were looking and then write about it. (That's totally a lie, I've just been extremely busy with the holidays and other top-secret life things, and have gotten home too late and/or too exhausted to write about it.)

Making a fruitcake is an adventure and a half, and not for the faint of heart (or wallet) because the list of ingredients is a mile long and full of things you've never heard of (what the heck is a citron?!), and the directions are very specific. All of the fruits are candied, and I had no idea where to find candied fruits, much less candied fruits I'd never heard of, but decided to start at our international Farmers Market, since, usually, if it's weird, they have it. And they did not let me down this time--citron and all, I found my candied fruits. Except for candied red cherries, which you'd think would be the easiest to find. They had candied green cherries, but I figured there was a reason the recipe specifically calls for red, which I assume is that no one should put something as unnaturally colored as a candied green cherry into his or her body.

The next debacle was the pan for the cake. The recipe calls for a 10" tube pan. I had no idea what that was. A quick search revealed something like a bundt pan but not fluted... think angel food cake pan. After spending my monthly grocery budget on cake ingredients, the last thing I wanted to buy was another pan, so I continued my searching for an acceptable substitute. Not as easy as you might think. But thank Google this recipe is famous and some poor soul was as lost as I was, and I discovered two loaf pans would work if I just decreased the baking time by an hour. I actually heard my credit card sigh in relief. (Also, by switching to loaf pans, my instructions went from some convoluted nonsense about drawing circles on paper bags and folding and cutting to "line pans with heavy brown paper." Fruitcake for Dummies.)

So the raisins and currants soak in rum overnight. Then you add all your other fruits and nuts and you get a giant vat of candied trail mix that looks like this:



Then you mix up the cake batter and add it to the fruit vat and it looks... well, pretty much the same. There's barely enough batter to moisten all the fruits and nuts. I was slightly concerned about the physical possibility of "baking" the cake, but I'd come this far and I was not turning back. So, pans into oven, and 2.5 hours later, fruitcake! Somewhat cakey-er than the batter going in, but still mostly a solid 2.5 pounds of candied fruit per loaf.


The cakes now have to "cure" for several weeks wrapped in a cheesecloth soaked in rum. Every week I have to check the cakes and re-soak the cheesecloth if it's dry. Today was my first check, and the cakes look pretty much like what one might imagine--golden, fruity, rum-soaked little mummies.

13 more days to go. I'm still a skeptic. But, like I said, remember the Tomato Cake...

Saturday, December 3, 2011

Cake Week?

No, I did not forget to make a cake last week. I've just been putting off writing about it because 1.) I've been so busy I can't even remember what happened last week, and 2.) there's not too much to say.


Thanksgiving was last week, and I decided to add this cake as part of our dessert trio. No one but me likes pumpkin pie, and apple is exhausting to make (peeling all those darn apples...), so we were down to the Best Pecan Pie in the Whole Universe (a secret family recipe) and French Silk pie. This week's recipe was for coconut cake, and while coconut does not seem to go at all with Thanksgiving, I figured why not throw it in? After all, I'm thankful for the tropics because it's warm and there are lots of vacation spots, so why not show a little love by incorporating coconut into our Thanksgiving feast?


My boss generously gave us Wednesday off, so I used part of my "free" time to make the cake. The cake itself is a white cake, and pretty simple as cakes go. The frosting was more interesting--almost like a marshmallow fluff consistency, which was tricky to get just right (thank goodness for the KitchenAid) and trickier to spread. The recipe only called for toasted coconut on the top and outside, but I'm a go-big-or-go-home kinda person, so I put a healthy dash in between the layers as well. I ended up with a lovely three layer tower of vanilla coconut marshmallow goodness.


It was a hit--held its own against the other Thanksgiving desserts Thursday, got rave reviews at our weekly football gathering on Sunday (Tim's new favorite? It's a close call...), and on Monday I sent a large piece (as well as some of the ridiculous amounts of leftover coconut I had) home with some friends from Emory, who also gave it two thumbs up. Kudos to this cake for spreading its cake joy for almost an entire week!